JCDSA  Vol.3 No.3 B , November 2013
Dualistic Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Based on Phenylpropanoids from Ajuga reptans
Abstract: Our continued interest in the research and development of cosmetic active ingredients deriving from natural sources led us to investigate the potential of a purified extract of Ajuga reptans, a plant belonging to the family Labiatae and known for its traditional use in skin healing. The extracts deriving from a biotechnology platform are composed by meristematic cell culture, developed in the frame of a NTFP (non-timber forest product) project, and characterized by high content in phenylpropanoid, of which teupolioside represents the majority component. The latter is a phenylpropanoid glucoside, structurally correlated echinacoside and known in the literature for the antioxidant properties. This study was conducted with the purpose of evaluating the applicability of the Ajuga reptans extract within different cosmetic formulations. In particular, Photochemiluminescence (PCL) was used to proof the antioxidant capacity of cosmetic formulations containing the product, in relation to the change of the title of teupolioside. Furthermore, UVA and UVB filtering properties were also investigated. The results of the study showed relevantly antioxidant capacity of the finished formulation against superoxide anion, which is the main reactive oxygen species responsible for skin aging and significant synergic capacities to filter UV radiation.
Cite this paper: S. Vertuani, P. Ziosi, R. Toso, C. Vicentini and S. Manfredini, "Dualistic Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Based on Phenylpropanoids from Ajuga reptans," Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, Vol. 3 No. 3, 2013, pp. 64-72. doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2013.33A2014.

[1]   M. Ono, C. Furusawa, T. Ozono, K. Oda, S. Yasuda, M. Okawa, J. Kinjo, T. Ikeda, H.Miyashita, H. Yoshimitsu and T. Nohara, “Four New Iridoid Glucosides from Ajuga reptans,” Chemical & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, Vol. 59, No. 8, 2011, pp. 1065-1068.

[2]   S. Manfredini, S. Vertuani and E. Scalambra, “Dualistic Molecules Having UV Radiation Filtrating Ability at Wide Spectrum and Potent Damping Activity of the Reactivity of Free Radicals (Radicals Scavenging),” International Patent Application, WO/2013/102843, 2013.

[3]   C. Deep Kaur and S. Saraf, “In Vitro Sun Protection Factor Determination of Herbal Oils Used in Cosmetics,” Pharmacognosy Research, Vol. 2, No. 1, 2010, pp. 22-25. 0974-8490.60586

[4]   R. Di Paola, E. Esposito, E. Mazzon, L. Riccardi, R. Caminiti, R. Dal Toso, G. Pressi and S. Cuzzocrea, “Teupolioside, a Phenylpropanoid Glycosides of Ajuga reptans, Biotechnologically Produced by IRBN22 Plant Cell Line, Exerts Beneficial Effects on a Rodent Model of Colitis,” Biochemical Pharmacology, Vol. 77, No. 5. 2009, pp. 845-857.

[5]   T. Vogt, “Phenylpropanoid Biosynthesis,” Molecular Plant, Vol. 3, No. 1, 2010, pp. 2-20.

[6]   L. G. Korkina, “Phenylpropanoids as Naturally Occurring Antioxidants: From Plant Defense to Human Health,” Cellular and Molecular Biology, Vol. 53, No. 1, 2007, pp. 15-25.

[7]   A. Saijaa, A. Tomaino, D. Trombetta, M. L. Pellegrino, B. Tita, C. Messina, F. P. Bonina, C. Rocco, G. Nicolosi and F. Castelli, “‘In Vitro’ Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties and Interaction with Model Membranes of Three New Quercetin Esters,” European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, Vol. 56, No. 2, 2003, pp. 167-174. 00101-2

[8]   R. M. Facino, M. Carini, G. Aldini, L. Saibene, P. Pietta and P. Mauri, “Echinacoside and Caffeoyl Conjugates Protect Collagen from Free Radical-Induced Degradation: A Potential Use of Echinacea Extracts in the Prevention of Skin Photodamage,” Planta Medica, Vol. 61, No. 6, 1995, pp. 510-514.

[9]   P. Ziosi, E. Besco, S. Vertuani, N. Solaroli and S. Manfredini, “A Non-Invasive Method for the in Vivo Determination of Skin Antioxidant Capacity (IAC-S),” Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 12, No. 4, 2006, pp. 303-308.

[10]   S. Vertuani, P. Ziosi, N. Solaroli, V. Buzzoni, M. Carli, E. Lucchi, L. Valgimigli, G. Baratto and S. Manfredini, “Determination of Antioxidant Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations by Non-Invasive Measurements,” Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 9, No. 3, 2003, pp. 245-253. 10.1034/j.1600-0846.2003.00018.x

[11]   A. Baldisserotto, G. Malisardi, E. Scalambra, E. Andreotti, C. Romagnoli, C. B. Vicentini, S. Manfredini and S. Vertuani, “Synthesis, Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity of a New Phloridzin Derivative for Dermo-Cosmetic Applications,” Molecules, Vol. 17, No. 11, 2012, pp. 13275-13289. 10.3390/molecules171113275

[12]   S. Vertuani, E. Beghelli, E. Scalambra, G. Malisardi, A. Copetti, R. Dal Toso, A. Baldisserotto and S. Manfredini, “Activity and Stability Studies of Verbascoside, a Novel Antioxidant, in Dermo-Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Topical Formulations,” Molecules, Vol. 16, No. 8, 2011, pp. 7068-7080.

[13]   P. Ziosi, S. Manfredini, S. Vertuani, V. Ruscetta, M. Radice and G. Sacchetti, “Evaluating Essential Oils in Cosmetics: Antioxidant Capacity and Functionality,” Cosmetics & Toiletries, 2010, pp. 32-39.

[14]   G. Lewin and I. Popov, “Oxidants and Antioxidants Part B—Antioxidative Homeostasis: Characterization by Means of Chemiluminescent Technique,” Methods in Enzymology, Vol. 300, 1999, pp. 437-456.

[15]   I. Popov and G. Lewin, “Photochemiluminescent Detection of Antiradical Activity III: A Simple Assay of Ascorbate in Blood Plasma,” Journal of Biochemical and Biophysical Methods, Vol. 28, No. 4, 1994, pp. 277-282.

[16]   European Standardisation Organisation (CEN), “Cosmetics Sun Protection Test Methods in Vivo Determination of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF),” Standard EN ISO 24444, 2010.

[17]   B. Diffey and J. Robson, “A New Substrate to Measure Sunscreen Protection Factors Throughout the Ultraviolet Spectrum,” Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 40, No. 5, 1989, pp. 127-133.

[18]   P. Ziosi, S. Manfredini, A. Vandini, S. Vertuani and M. Fraternali, “Caprylyl Glycol/Phenethyl Alcohol Blend for Alternative Preservation of Cosmetics,” Cosmetic & Toiletries, Vol. 128, No. 8, 2013, pp. 538-551.

[19]   R. Dal Monte, R. Dal Toso, A. Minghetti and N. Crespi Perellino, “Extracts from Ajuga reptans Cell Lines, Their Preparation and Use,” European Patent EP1997501, 2008.